Kembali Indonesia - Return to Indonesia

Well who would have thought that my last post of June 14 from Don's hospital room would not be followed up until today, second full day in Indonesia? With his discharge from hospital July 16 and our return from Vancouver to Toronto after his surgeon's followup visit, and his rate of recovery, we both decided I would return to resume my volunteer post. He is doing well, with some rest and also some stamina building to go, including a part time return to work this week.
It is Idul Fitr (end of Ramadan) and therefore a holiday time here, so with our office closed I am staying in Bali a few days to ease back to language and culture. I am sitting right now with my orange Fanta, and for friends who travelled to Turkey with us, fond memories of Fanta orange on those hot beaches.
It is great weather here right now as dry season brings cooling breezes - I even needed a long sleeve shirt to eat outside last evening! Unheard of so far for me here. The day time sun is still very hot though but a sit in the shade is downright pleasant. Will return to hot and humid soon enough.
Soon it will be enough of this lollygagging (where did that saying come from anyway?) and I will be back to work in Kupang and surrounding villages. I should have some stories to tell and photos to post soon.

Posting a photo of us sharing a blueberry waffle - Don could only eat a small portion so I had to endure eating the major portion of it!! It was sure wonderful to have those seasonal Canadian berries! I have 3 jars of 2011 Red Deer raspberry jam in my suitcase. I will make them last.

Belok di Hidup - Life Turns

sunset from the 9th floor

Again! A bad translation but there you go! Life does throw turns and twists just to keep us on our toes. Don and I were in the midst of planning his visit to me in Kupang and area starting end of August instead ----- a note from Canada where I arrived 10 days ago. For those of you who don‚t know, I returned to Canada, Vancouver where Don was at a conference and was admitted to hospital for emergency surgery. Thank goodness for air travel and I was here in two days. This is a short note to say he is continuing to recover, although not as quickly as he or I would like, but he is in good care. It will be another week at least before he is discharged, then we will make plans from there, and also once he has his post discharge visit to the surgeon in Vancouver.

fortunate to live where this is available

Friends and family on both sides of the world have been great and such a help in getting me on my way out of Kupang and also on arrival here. Thanks to all! Stay posted! 
Can't get away without a few pitures so here is the view from Don's room of beautiful downtown and the sunset and his machine that is currently making sure he stays full of good nutrition.

flowers and a view!

Persiapan Pengungsiang - Evacution Preparation

We are into the dry season now, with strong winds many days or often just at night - varies. I am noticing a distinct change in temperature - humidity way down and evening temps are very nice for sitting out as long as I have mosquitoe spray on although they aren't bad but they are still around. In January asnd February I couldn't imagine not having a fan on me even to sit and do computer work but haven't had the fan on for the last two weeks! It's still hot but so much easier as long as I'm out of the sun.
There was a bit of excitement around our house as we have a big undeveloped space across the road and due to dry and wind, a small fire, probably someone burning rubbish, was soon a big fire and coming directly toward the house. The whole neighbourhood was in our front and kids hanging off our fence to get a good look, which was pretty scary to see as with the wind whipping the flames we were in direct route and it was to the edge of our road. A neighbour came over and started talking to me - me using the language best I could, so a good way to meet the women of the neighbourhood!

from the front door

As I was texting Anna at work that I might be evacuating, a "fire truck" came along with what looked like real firemen, hose and all but not as much water as they needed as the truck was small. When they ran out, off they went but soon back with 2 trucks! Soon all under control but I had been outside with my door open so now I had loads of ash and black soot inside to deal with. Our balcony out back was covered too, so lots of cleanup.
The good part was, it caused Anna and I to do our emergency evacuation bags up as we should have anyway, mostly for earthquake evac, but maybe for our location, it might be fire as now across from us it is really dry tinder and long grass - perfect conditions for another fire. My backpack has the essentials I think according to the list VSO gave us so am ready to run!!

Fire escapee?

I have just hosted one of my fellow volunteers from Flores Island for two days as she was here on a technical sharing visit on clean water with some local folks I put her in touch with. She was also a great wealth of knowledge about volunteering and sharing skills in Indonesia as she has been here for 2 years and is now on her way home to Canada on Sunday. She is from Toronto so lucky me, I have another courier, only this time going the other way. Sending a couple of small birthday presents home for son Lee and granddaughter Claudia. Don will mail from To as mailing from here is crazy expensive and really slow! Feels quite cool knowing that she will meet Don and be a "connector".

Alana and Chris- clean water consult

Just walked to the market to get tomatoes and eggplant and pciked up some coconut shells to start on some crafting of souvenirs. Yes friends who know me! Crafts!!!! We'll see what I can turn out and the shells are free!

Salamat sore teman-teman
Good evening friends

Kerja di Laut - Work at the Sea

stone collecting

stone harves

time to play

sort

This was a short work week, with the first 3 days spent at our office for training for the community workers on poverty assessment. Our director gave the training which included how indicators of poverty are developed along with variables and scoring for levels of poverty. It was a heavy 3 days but is being done in preparation for staff to carry out the census in their assigned villages.

ride to the beach luxury style

We then had two days of holiday, one of which my roommate and I had a great trip to a new beach. She had a colleague staying with us from Jakarta and he had the use of a car – a luxury for us! A new Toyota SUV, just like our old Highlander, just a little smaller. We headed off to the beach Anna had heard about and with rough roads and very tight turns up over the mountainous area – about 170 km took 4 hours, through a village that has major water flooding problems and even now with the rains letting up many homes stand on soaked, muddy ground. In the rainy season the homes oare often flooded. Underground streams coming down the mountain seem to be the problem and although the government has a massive program underway building deep rock lined ditches along both sides of the road, it’s difficult to see how this will help the farmers on either side.

We did arrive at the beach where people live just off the road along the beach of rock and stone. It is the only beach like it on Timor and these people are paid to harvest the stone of all sizes for businesses that buy them by the sack.

Whole families were working collecting the stones in buckets then either piling them according to size or filling the fibre sacks directly. Each family appears to have staked out territory and the one we talked to had mom, dad and two girls working constantly. The winds were high and so was the surf otherwise the dad would have been out fishing. The stones were beautiful, mostly white and polished from the tumbling of the surf. They also collected the small pebbles on the edge of the surf and had to run into the sea when the water pulled back, quicklyscoopt a bucket full with their hands, and run with the bucket when the water came back in or else they would have water mixed in with the pebbles. . Quite an operation and although everyone worked, the children still made games of running in the water and took time to come and stare at us as we ate our take away lunch of fried chicken and rice with tempeh bought at a roadside restaurant called Rumah Makan Padang. Padang is the type of preparation.

The Dad came and took a break with us also and told why they were collecting the rocks and that he was paid equivalent to $5Ca. for each sack and we could see he had at least 20 lined up to go, which is a very good pay, depending on how many a week he sells.
Probably for gardens in far away places! One wonders what happens when all the stones are harvested. Is there a never- ending supply for future generations? I could see the string of families all along the beach working their respective area. Many tons of stone on the move.I have had two long rides on my motor bike; one following Anna, who pushed me to get going this week and led me to the Honda shop to get new shock absorbers. What a difference those babies make! I’m not bouncing off my seat when going over the many huge speed bumps and hitting the pot holes which seem to pull me like a magnet. Then, since I was already dressed in my protective clothing she suggested we ride some more, so hit a busy road and she was kind in taking me on mostly left hand turns. Then as she went out today, called out over her shoulder that I should get out again on my own so got up my nerve and headed out for an hour. Got a bit lost but since we live on the crest of the hill looking out to sea, it’s not hard to get back on track! Did more right hand turns today as it is Sunday and was quieter traffic. Now will ride tomorrow to the conference Anna has squeezed me into for 3 days. The hotel is just down the road from us so an easy ride. The conference sounds very cool, sponsored by Red Cross Netherlands and Care International and others and is called “5th South South Citizenry Based Development Sub-Academy”;  a learning conference in it’s 5th year. This year’s theme of  Resiliency in the South countries. It has invited about 100 people to participate and build a learning community. I will know more once I’ve attended the 3 days, but I’m excited to meet people from all over Indonesia and beyond.

door building

Then lastly we had a screen door made for our balcony doore and the fellow came, measured, took the noney to buy the materials and then came back with tools and did it on the spot. Electric drill, chisel to make it fit in the end and hand saw! Not a bad job, not a tight fit but it will help keep the mossies out. So cool to watch the construction on our balcony! He was very meticulous and took lots of time. Total cost about $25 Ca.


So all for now - selamat siang - good afternoon!

Empat Bulan - Six Months!

Empat Bulan - Six Months

Well, 6 months have passed since I arrived in Indonesia and so many experiences, so many emotions, so much help and support to make good decisions. Again, a big thanks to you - you know who you are!

Just thought I’d do a review of my day - there is no average day - my saying with Berti is “every day is a mystery in Indonesia”. I sent a text message to one of my regular, careful ojek drivers last evening to book him for 8:30 this morning. Neither of them speak English so need to be careful of my wording or he will come in the evening! Or the wrong day. Got up this morning, did my short yoga on the mat that stays on the floor at the end of my bed so as to remind me, turned on my phone in case the ojek cancels (which he did - he wasn’t feeling well) sent a message to second ojek and turned on my computer. Had a “bath” dumping room temp water over me in the bathroom, always feels good as I’m usually pretty warm.

Got dressed, got my cereal -coconut museli from Bali that I hoard and use sparingly, make my tea and skyped with friend Susan.

Then off to the office - worked on a proposal for a small grant from VSO to hold a two day workshop in Oelomin village on disability inclusion, and to hear from the other organizations I hope to link to the village forming a good network of support and services from government and a member run NGO that I talked about last Blog.

Needed the bank to to do a fund transfer to reimburse my housemate for the rent on our new home so one of the staff drove me on her bike then took me home after and I worked on finishing the proposal.

Went for a walk in my new neighbourhood, found the large market - pasar - is walking distance, just not in the heat of midday. Went looking for a kiosk that had ability to scan my tax information that needs to get to the accoutant at home - 3rd try found one that had a working computer. Most of this type of service including internet booths, are small owner operated shops and frequent along most side roads. Was able to get my message across of what I needed and had him email me the docs. Now I am home I see they didn’t arrive so will go back tomorrow to see what the problem is. Should have looked over his shoulder.

I saw goats grazing on the side of the road - a frequent sight as owner just stake them here and there, whever the grass is long then move them home in the evening. Lots of garbage and a big sin reading “Kupang Green and Clean”. Plastic is everywhere and used so much and garbage is just slung off the side of roads. There are big bins along each street but not everyone uses them and when they do get used, the overflow with help from the dogs  take it everywhere.
People smile and we exchange greetings, young boys call out “Hello Mister” and I stop and let them know they have it wrong and tell them my name - Mrs Pam or Ibu Pam.
Finished with a call from Berti letting me know the provincial office person who we met a few weeks ago and the NGO PERSANI (disabled persons organization) wants to have a meeting Saturday at 4 pm. I asked for some agenda or reason for the meeting and she “thinks” it’s probably to talk about planning us all to go to the village to see the people who we think they could  help. It is so interesting and what gives me trouble is that I go to meetings usually with little idea of the purpose until I get into the meeting and then sometimes not if it’s all in Indonesian. So, we will go and then we will know! (update now that it is a week gone by and this not loaded! Meeting was about picking my brain on fundraising ideas for PERSANI) There ya go, mystery solved. Had to do some on the spot thinking but I believe I had a few ideas.

I do hope the baby who lives just below our balcony in the row housing gets soothed soon, for his sake and mine! He’s been crying for a long time! Not too much quiet most of the time.

So that’s today - with my friends Anglea and Morten coming for dinner - squash and sweet potatoe soup - vegetables and fresh garlic, ginger and turmeric bought yesterday at the market. They leave for a 3 week holiday so this will be beer and soup bon voyage.

Since it has been a week of trying to get enough internet signal to load this here's an update. My house warming gift from Angela and Morten was a  shower attachment to my tap in my bathroom! Just have to go outside and turn on the jet pump and I have a working shower!!! Sorry, no photos this time - won't load.

Berbeda Membuat? - Making a Difference?

bedroom up the ladder

This title is another one of those bad translations “Pam style!” apologies to Indonesian linguists.

A few bits from the last week include a great weekend visiting the island of Alor, a short 50 minute plane ride in a small prop carrying about 50 people max. We stayed at a place on a tiny island, 5 minute boat ride from the main island at a place owned by a French family called La Petite Kapan. It is set up along the lines of local types of housing, cabins as well as traditional housing, in which my 5 friends and I stayed. I had one to myself as we were odd numbers and on first sight I was a little hesitent to be alone but once heading to bed, found it to be a fantastic accommodation, waves lapping on the shore through the night in front of my “house”.

my "cabin" at La Petite Kapan

This is a dive destination and the family runs dives daily and is the main draw there but I enjoyed lying in my hammock, drinking coffee, swimming often in the totally clear water, going for walks to more beaches with not a soul on them. Once there was a lone fisherman out in the water spear fishing it’s that clear. We ate fresh fish, and lots of delicious dishes to go with it. So great to have these spots to go to, reasonably priced and accessible.

tall women in Bemo on Alor

On the work front it has been pretty active with some rewarding work. One of the first young persons we interviewed/assessed in the village was a 20 year old who looked like he perhaps had polio when he was 13 - later confirmed when we saw the doctor report. He laid in bed for 4 years with no further education than his elementary schooling, due to lots of mobility problems but at age 17 went to the city 45 minutes away for rehab and therapy which helped him to regain strength in his upper body but still walking with great difficulty, around the home mostly, home consisting of a bedroom and sitting room and living with his grandparents. He went to the fields with them on occasion but felt helpless in this land of farming with all manual labour.

Once we had connected with the provincial social services department and a local Disabled Persons Organization as part of our networking we learned he might qualify for 2 years of educational upgrading, including learning a trade and assistance to find employment when returned home. All training would take place on another island, a fair distance by plane but all paid for by the Social Services Dept. The hitch was the next intake had a deadline 2 days after we learned of it. Boy, did Berti and I scramble, calling the village head to immediately get all the family assessbled as this would be a family decision, then to take a representative of the volunteer disabled persons organization to explain it to everyone as one peer to another. The woman we took had very limited mobility due to a bad accident a few years ago.

Family decision: LtoR:village head, young man

shelling peas - 3 generations

Then to get a physical exmination and doctor report, letter from the village head, approvals signed by the young man, and his father, passport type photos of him and of his disability, photocopies of it all, etc etc!! Seemed monumemtal to me but with the guidance of the village head and the volunteer who came with us, all was accomplished between Thursday and the following Monday and papers into the provincial department responsible for the programme. Whew! The young man, who was initially reluctant to talk to us is thrilled, the village leadership now knows there are such programmes and a connection to services and supports has begun for this village. Our job is to strengthen this connection and have a local person designated to keep track of disabilities and keep updated on services and support programmes availalbe. This is just one man, one village, but it’s a start. More to go, but the most important thing is, we have begun.
While waiting for the village head to arrive I had the fun of shelling beans, looked like black eyed peas and black beans to me but with the same shell - with grandma and her granddaughter. Grandma was a bit perplexed at me sitting on the floor with them and thought I just wanted a photo op as after the photo kept trying to have me get up but it was fun so I stayed with it til we finished the tray. I’m sure they have bags full in the back room. Never idle hands!

(Just got a text from Berti as I'm writing this Blog that he has been approved and leaves end of May for the Makasar). We are so excited for him.

Moved into my new digs yesterday with my housemate Anna. Saw the most magnificent sunset from our balcony overlooking the sea tonight! Well, 5:30-6 pm so not really night, just dark!

Oh Yes - rode my motor bike from Anglea and Morten's to my new him today - an easy short ride and arrived successfully. Will keep on going now.

sea and sunset from the balcony

All for now - hope you enjoy and all of you are keeping hale and hearty

Desa Oelomin - Oelomin Village

This week had me back in Oelomin for a day of visiting a couple of more people who have disability as indentified by the "Kapala Desa" or Village Head. He is the man with many responsibilities running and guiding the operations of a village of about 350 people. He provided a list of people with disabilitites to Berti when I was early on in my placement. On this day we saw him in his office to ask official permission to go ahead and start visiting people. When we sat down in the office Berti turned to me and told me to ask for the permission in Indonesian and caught me by surprise as so often happens here.

Mama trying on Berti's glasses for fun!

I stumbled my way through and we sent on our way with his thanks and blessing.

First we went to a family where the 4 year old girl was reported to have mobility problems but on arrival, saw her playing and walking with no problem. We politely visitied with her mother for a while, me trying to get the little girl to dance or play with me so that we could really look for  her mobility problem but her shyness kept her back although my dancing brought a smile to her face! We did decide the Kapala Desa did not quite have an up to date list! So from then on Berti asked other people who she has worked with in the village for updates to the list and we think we have much better detail now.

visiting in the family living room

We did visit a woman of 32 who has severe mobility challenges and following a fever and pain in 2004, was left in bed for quite a while and now has weakness in her legs and walks bent at the waist. We want to try to have her assessed as we aren't sure if this was polio or something else.
She cooks for the family, her mother and father, sister and her small child and her own daughter who is now 8 years old. she also works in the garden where they have produce for the family and for taking to market in Kupang, a 60 minute  ride away by the rickety crowded bemo bus. Her sister has that chore!

family home

The whole family lives in a one room bamboo hut and their living room is the front yeard where we visited. When they saw us coming someone ran into the house and brought out the usual plastic chairs and they served us sweet coffee. Her Elderly mother and father sat under the tree after bringing some produce we wanted to buy from their plots of veggies - fresh picked casava leaves and papaya flowers as well.

village traditional dance competition

Then as we walked back to Berti's motor bike we spotted some fruit for sale on the roadside and called to the house for someone to sell us some. Turned out to be guava and she sold it by a big bowl full. Quite small fruit but really high in vitamin C. Then we  squeezed it all into our day packs and hang the extra bag off the hook on the front of the bike and headed home!
The papaya flowers got soaked in salt to reduce theri bitter flavour and stir fried with the casava leaves, garlic, onion and of course hot chiles. Delicious! or Sedap! in Indonesian.

take care all - talk to you again soon.

elders enoying traditional dance competition